Grape Expectations

Jeremy Blood discusses wine courses…

Have you ever wanted to be more daring whilst choosing a bottle of wine in the supermarket or restaurant? Have you ever wanted to astound your guests with your wine choice at dinner? If you have, then read on.

There are more and more choices out there for wine lovers of all levels of knowledge, so making informed choices gets more and more difficult. The latest edition of the fantastic book, The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, details how much the wine world has increased in size over recent years. So getting to know which countries produce wine and in what style has become crucial in the pursuit of that perfect drink.

The good news regarding wine education is that it’s not just theory. Learning about classic wine countries and their grapes is fascinating, however it’s the tastings that most of my visitors enjoy most. I am always amazed how quickly wine novices start identifying flavours and aromas after only one session. And yes, some of the aroma descriptions I get to hear during tastings are priceless. But remember, practice is one of the best ways to improve, so the more you taste the more you learn. I discovered this whilst studying for my Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) exams over the last two years. It was a tough job but somebody had to do it…

But you don’t have to take exams to start learning about wine. A large number of people who visit Surrey Wine School just want to have a bit more knowledge so that they become more confident when buying wine, thereby reducing the odds of choosing one that tastes awful. Knowing something about wine styles will not only steer you towards a better purchase, but your improved understanding will increase your enjoyment of wine dramatically.

Aren’t wine tastings and courses stuffy and full of pretentious people, I hear you ask? Absolutely not, at Surrey Wine School the courses and tastings are geared towards people of all knowledge levels and experience. The atmosphere is friendly, relaxed and in no way intimidating. During the tasting you will learn essential elements of tasting which you will find are easy to learn and will help you to discover the wines you like or dislike and why.

Julie who came on the eight week World of Wine Course told me, “I thoroughly enjoyed it as you could probably tell. I got my husband to go through the whole see, swirl, and smell and taste scenario with the wine. I almost sounded as though I knew what I was talking about”.

We have a wide range of different courses available, from the fantastic Saturday Introduction to Wine day which includes Champagne, 12 wines and a two course lunch. The eight week World of Wine course will transport you to the greatest wine regions in the world, tasting all the best wines on the way. I also have cookery and wine matching workshops with Chef Maxwell McKenzie, and a new collaboration with Flavour Tastings learning how to match wine and cheese – a slice of Saturday Kitchen comes to Guildford. After all those you will be learning fast so a four week course on Italy, Spain or France would round off your education perfectly.

As we are not affiliated to any wine merchant, I can buy wine for the courses from wherever I think it’s a good example of the country being showcased. All the tastings take place with the accompaniment of finger foods specially selected to match the wines. You will also get to try the wines in proper tasting glasses and at the conclusion wine notes will be supplied.

Most importantly, it’s the atmosphere at the tastings that has to be spot on, as Anne commented after the Burgundy and Loire evening. “It was a really fun evening pitched just right with the level of knowledge we could take in while getting a bit merry. It was funny how the volume in the room rose as the evening progressed”.

Although Surrey Wine School has only been operating for a year, we are part of the Local Wine School Network that was set up in 2000. 17 wine schools operate out of different locations around the country, proving that there is a demand for wine education. It is not surprising to see why as it is very hard for most people to find out much about wine these days without knowing where to look on the Internet.

This is also the case in some large supermarkets where wine advice and guidance from staff can be non-existent. It is, however pleasing to report that Marks and Spencer and Majestic are investing in higher-level staff training and in providing wines to taste in store. Marks & Spencer arrange free wine tastings for customers in Camberley and Guildford, where at least six wines and food are provided every three months. I run all these sessions, locally, and have been getting 50 to 60 attendees at some of them. Majestic staff all undergoes WSET training and run some of their own tasting periodically.

Locally, our area has some great independent wine merchants who all provide their customers with opportunities to taste or invest considerable time giving advice on their wine range. I would certainly recommend The Guildford Wine Company, Taurus Wines, The Vineyard in Dorking, Ranmore Wines and The Vineking in Reigate.

But remember, nothing beats the fun of a proper, well organised wine tasting.

All courses and tastings are available to buy as gift vouchers for Christmas, birthdays and other special occasions, and can be booked online. For more information about upcoming dates and prices, visit www.surreywineschool.com, email info@surreywineschool.com or call Jeremy on 01306 898569 or 07436 072518.



Chocolate delights

So who does not love chocolate? It is one of those magical things – in small doses of course. My step-father used to swear by Cadbury’s, something my French mother never really understood. So convinced was she that French or Belgian chocolate was vastly superior, a few years ago she organised a grand chocolate tasting amongst their friends in South Africa where they lived but she failed to get much support!

Happily palates have changed and there is now a much better appreciation of top quality chocolate alongside the traditional old family favourites. As you will see in our interview with Mike Noble from Noble & Stace on the website, excellent chocolates are now even being made here in the south-east of England. From wines to chocolates, who would have thought it? Here are a few recipes for Christmas. Some of these would make great gifts as well… if you don’t end up eating them all. SR

Ginger Caramel Crunch
From Mike Noble www.nobleandstace.co.uk

Ingredients:

120g sugar, 27g glucose syrup, 610g good quality dark chocolate, 110g white chocolate, 160g double cream, 20g salted butter, crystallised ginger (optional).
Makes approximately 40 chocolates

Method:

1. Make the caramel crunch – put 50g of sugar and 20g of glucose syrup into a heavy based saucepan over a medium heat. Cook until it’s amber in colour and then immediately pour onto an oven safe silicon mat that’s on a heat resistant surface. Leave to cool and then break up into fine pieces in a processor.

2. Make the ganache – put 110g of good quality dark chocolate and 110g of white chocolate into a bowl and set aside. Measure out 160g of double cream and 7g of glucose syrup into a microwave-safe bowl and bring to the boil – set aside. Now put 28g of water and 70g of sugar into a heavy based saucepan, stir and heat gently until it turns a rich amber in colour. Take off the heat and very carefully pour in the warm cream, a little at a time and stirring continously. It will spit and steam a lot at this stage so take extra care! Then pour the caramel and cream mixture onto the chocolate, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then combine. Once the mixture has cooled to 35d C stir in 20g salted butter, the crunch from step 1 and ground ginger to taste – start with just a pinch!

3. Cut the ganache – pour the ganache into a lined tin so it’s approximately 1cm thick and leave somewhere cool to set. Once it’s firm, cut into small cubes and separate out on a piece of greaseproof paper, leaving overnight at room temperature to dry.

4.Dip – Temper approximately 500g of good quality dark chocolate then using a dipping fork, coat each ganache square before placing on a greaseproof sheet to cool. Decorate each with a piece of crystallised ginger if you wish!

Cherry Surprise Chocolates
From Lakeland www.lakeland.co.uk

Ingredients:

225g icing sugar, sifted, 1 tbsp liquid glucose, 1 tsp cherry liqueur, small jar of maraschino cherries (you will need 20 cherries and some of the liquid), 400g white or milk chocolate, roughly chopped.

Makes 20 chocolates

Method:

1. Place a chocolate mould in the fridge 20 minutes before starting.
2. Make a fondant filling; mix together the icing sugar, liquid glucose, cherry liqueur and 3 tsp of the liquid from the maraschino cherry jar, reserve.
3. Place 50g of the chocolate into a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Melt the chocolate very slowly, stirring all the time. Remove the chocolate from the heat.
4. Take the mould from the refrigerator and fill a third of each shape with chocolate; using a small paint brush, spread the chocolate up the sides of the shapes until all covered. Return the mould to the fridge for about 10 minutes. Once set, check to see if there are any gaps in the chocolate; if so, fill them in with melted chocolate and chill again to set.
5. Add a cherry to each chocolate and top with cherry filling, leaving space for a layer of chocolate. Refrigerate until the filling is firmer; when firm to touch, melt the remaining chocolate and pour on top of the filling, so that it comes level with the sides of each shape and completes the chocolate.
6. Return to the fridge for about 30 minutes until completely hardened. When ready, gently flex the moulds to release the chocolates and store in a cool dry place.

St Emilion au Chocolat
From Elizabeth David’s French Country Cooking (Penguin)

Ingredients:

125g butter, 125g sugar 125g, 1 teacup milk, 1 egg, 250g dark chocolate,12-16 macaroons, a tot of rum or brandy.

Serves 4-6

Method:

1. Cream the butter and the sugar until they are well amalgamated. Scald the milk and let it cool, then mix it with the yolk of the egg.
2. Melt the chocolate in a bain marie with a very little water, then stir in the milk and egg mixture, then the butter and sugar. Stir this cream carefully until it is absolutely smooth.
3. In a souffle dish or individual ramekins, arrange a layer of macaroons, soaked in a little rum or brandy; over these pour a layer of the chocolate cream, then put another layer of macaroons and so on until the dish is full, finishing with macaroons. Leave the dish in a cold place for at least 12 hours.

Cinnamon and chocolate stars
From Jessica Haggerty’s Brighton Bakes (The Book Guild)

Sprinkled prettily over your tablecloth, these make the perfect pick-up-and-munch treat. They’re also very useful as Christmas tree decorations. An all-purpose, buttery, crumbly biscuit then – simple, but all the better for it.

Ingredients:

150g self-raising flour, 150g plain flour, 2tsp ground cinnamon, 125g butter, 100g sugar, 1 egg, beaten, 100g chocolate.

Makes 24 biscuits

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 160C, gas mark 3.
2. Sift the flours and cinnamon together in a large bowl.
3. In a separate bowl, mix the butter and sugar with a wooden spoon until smooth. Add the egg and mix well.
4. Combine both the dry and wet ingredients and mix into a firm dough.
5. Lightly flour the work surface, turn out the dough and knead it lightly until smooth, making sure not to overwork it or your biscuits will be tough. Roll to a 5mm thickness.
6. Use a star cutter (or indeed any that take your fancy) to cut into shapes and place on a greased oven tray. Bake for 10-15 minutes until light golden. Cool on a rack.
7. Melt your chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of gently bubbling water. Dip your stars in the chocolate or drizzle it over them decoratively. Place back on the rack to harden.



Too hot to handle

Paul Howard looks at wines for spicy foods…

These days, Britain’s favourite dish is often said to be Chicken Tikka Masala, and there is no doubting our love of the ethnic cuisines of Asia, particularly those from India, China and Thailand.

Unlike in Europe, wine made from grapes was neither produced nor consumed in quantity in Asia, so there is no clearly established tradition of wine and food matching. Partnering wine with Far Eastern food is more difficult than with western cuisine – names, dishes and ingredients may be unfamiliar and it is well known that key ingredients such as chilli, ginger and tamarind are not wine-friendly. Nonetheless, it is possible to enjoy wine with Asian food, particularly where it majors on subtlety and complexity rather than sheer heat.
So here are some guidelines and suggestions as to which styles of wine are likely to be most successful with Indian, Chinese and Thai food. Drinking beer is rightly a good and popular option – but it doesn’t have to be the only one!

Indian
Let’s write off the searingly hot stuff straight away. Dishes with testosterone-appeal like vindaloo verge on the lethal and numb the taste buds so don’t waste money on wine with those. Lager (preferably Indian) or lassi will serve you best if you like searing heat. However, Indian cuisine is the product of many cultures and regions, offering milder dishes that do collaborate with wine, including tandoori and balti. Don’t get too hung up on individual ingredients, just know how hot the dish is. The inclusion of cooling yoghurt, coconut, rice and various breads is also helpful.

Don’t waste money on expensive bottles; it is inevitable that the subtle nuances of complex wines will be diminished and older wines are just too frail. Tannins and oak flavours are best avoided too. Most rosé is too flimsy while conversely, robust fortified wines like port are too alcoholic for most people to drink through a meal. Fortunately, that still leaves a wide range of wines to try!

Fight fire with fruit; wines with plenty of fruit can afford to lose some when faced with spices. Try a New World unoaked chardonnay with mild and creamy coconut dishes or korma. A little sweetness is also a good weapon against heat and sweetness will diminish when it encounters chilli. Off-dry aromatic wines such as Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris or Muscat are a very good choice, say with vegetable curries or bhaji’s. A demi-sec Vouvray is another savvy selection. In red wine, young and fruity low-tannin wines are much the best choice. Southern Italians such as Primitivo and Negroamaro can deal with meat dishes while South Africans swear by Pinotage. Drinking fizz with curry has its advocates too – Omar Khayyam sparkling wine is the authentic choice as it’s made in India near Mumbai.

Chinese
As with Indian cuisine, Chinese is comprised of a whole range of regional cuisines, but in Britain probably the most common style eaten is Cantonese. The emphasis is on textures and savoury sauces rather than combining spices. Vegetables, mushrooms, pork, duck and chicken are all important ingredients. Dishes are usually milder than in India but those classic sweet and sour elements present a challenge. Given that various Chinese dishes are frequently served together, a wine that can act as a good all-rounder is ideal.

This is where classic German white wines are ideal. An off-dry German Riesling has both acidity and a delicate sweetness that is delightful with stir-fries and can handle sweet and sour. They also go well with pork dishes and crispy Peking duck pancakes. Aromatic grape varieties from Alsace such as Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris pair well with saltier or soy-sauced dishes such as spare ribs!

Most reds usually do not fare well with Chinese and will feel heavy. Their tannins clash badly with salty foods, creating bitter tastes. So choose low-tannin fruity young reds and ask for them to be chilled. Beaujolais is first choice, or a young Pinot Noir from the New World or Cabernet Franc from the Loire. A good compromise is to drink rosé – a heavier off-dry style offers the best potential.

You might like to try a well chilled bottle of fizz with Chinese food. If you do then a demi-sec Cava would be my selection.

Thai
There are Chinese influences on Thai food but there are several different regional cuisines. Thai food employs herbs, coconut, and various pastes and fish sauces (nam pla). Fish and shellfish are common ingredients, as are beef and pork. Flavours range from the mild to the krakatoan, so as with Indian food check the overall impression of heat first.
Acidity is important, but sweetness less so. When in doubt, a dry New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a good choice, as are dry Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris from Alsace or New Zealand. There is even a role for a buttery Chardonnay or aromatic Viognier if you stick with mild coconut or peanut dishes. As for fizz, I’d choose a well-chilled Prosecco.

Red wines are again harder to match; the tannins and will actively clash with many ingredients and taste bitter. Mild beef dishes present the best opportunity to drink reds – try a simple young red such as a Dolcetto or Valpolicella. As with Chinese food, rosé can be a good compromise, but with Thai choose a dry version – you’ll get red fruit flavours with refreshing acidity and no awkward tannins.

Finally, it’s also useful to recall that Asian cuisine comes with plain accompaniments designed to refresh the palate, such as rice, breads or noodles. These provide an interlude where wine can be enjoyed. In a restaurant buy wine by the glass, as this is a simple and low-cost way to experiment and reduce the risk of a dud match.

Do try some of these suggestions even where that might mean putting some of your usual wine or food choices on hold. But of course there are no rules, only guidelines that are still being worked out. Your personal taste is always paramount; if a combination tastes good then it is good!

I’ve chosen the following five wines specifically to match with Asian food. All are good quality wines in their own right that show typical varietal character and should be drunk now while at their most fruity and vibrant. They are also inexpensive enough for affordable experimentation – so why not give ‘em a try!

Paul Howard is the publisher of Wine Alchemy (www.winealchemy.com)



Weekend Walk: Petworth Park Through Turner’s Eyes (2.5 miles)

1. To start the trail turn right as you enter the Pleasure Ground and follow the path through the gate to the park, past the kennels (on your right) and towards Lower Pond.

2. After an early morning sketch Turner would go fishing at Lower Pond. While the 3rd Earl of Egremont was used to this daily routine, it landed him in trouble at Tabley House in Cheshire. When commissioned by Sir John Leicester in 1809 for an oil painting of the lake there, he would often be found fishing mid-morning instead, and when pressed he responded that the sketch had already been completed! The finished painting was bought by the 3rd Earl on the death of Sir John, and can be found in the North Gallery in the House. You will still often find fishermen at Lower Pond where there are healthy pike, tench and carp populations.

This modern view of Upper Pond, as seen from Petworth House, inspired Turner (1775-1851) time and time again. Petworth House is home to 20 Turner oil paintings, the largest collection outside of the Tate.

3. From the top end of Lower Pond any of the three paths towards Arbour Hill will lead you to Upper Pond. Follow the path to the right of Upper Pond, and stop shortly after the gate. You should have the two spring-fed Stew Ponds ahead of you and a lumpy grass hill on your right. Look across Upper Pond towards the House to see the scene from Turner’s oil painting entitled ‘Dewy Morning’, one of a set of four exhibited in the White Library in the House – this room is open occasionally to visitors, by kind permission of Lord and Lady Egremont. The paintings took over four years to complete due to Turner testing different subjects and compositions.

4. Walk across Mansion Lawn until you are roughly half way between Upper Pond and the House, and then turn around to look back across the lake – this was the inspiration for ‘Sunset, Fighting Bucks’, which is currently located in the Carved Room in the House. If you visit in late September or October the deer are often seen rutting very close to the House.

5. Petworth House is home to many more Turner oil paintings – 13 in the North Gallery, four in the Carved Room and two in the Red Room. From Mansion Lawn take the gate to the left of the House through to the Pleasure Grounds. Take a right turn to visit the House or a left turn to return to the visitor centre and car park.

DISTANCE: 2.5 miles
OS MAPS: Explorer 121
STARTING POINT: Petworth House car park, grid ref: SU974224

Image: David Levenson NT



The Return of Rosé

With the better weather on its way, surely it is time to crack open a summer favourite. Paul Howard discusses Rosé…

Though Rosé is a wine style that has been made for centuries, it was seen as irredeemably naff by past generations of wine drinkers. Only in this decade did Rosé creep into fashion after years of neglect and now it seems we can’t get enough of it. Indeed, a bottle of Rosé has just been included in the basket of goods used to measure the Retail Price Index, which illustrates how Rosé is now in vogue. The pink craze is in full swing around the world, with wine producers stepping up production to meet demand. And Rosé doesn’t need to rely on chick appeal; it is chic in its own right.

The coarse, stickily sweet pinks of old are disappearing, those were products of poor winemaking that looked like failed red wine and usually tasted of mouthwash. I always imagined such vivid pink confections to be the colour of Liberace’s boudoir. No wonder they weren’t credible or enjoyable drinking. These days, the best Rosé is dry and refreshing and is the classic summer apéritif. In addition, it is also an excellent food partner; for alfresco dining, summer picnics and more besides.

Call it what you will – Rosé, as they do in France, Rosado in Spain, Rosato in Italy or Blush in the US – excellent examples can now be found in the UK from just about every wine producing country. You’ll find Rosé made from every kind of red grape variety, such as Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet, Cinsault, Grenache and many more. All will be characteristically different in colour and flavour. All can be delicious.

Pink wine traditions come from France and Spain. The idea was to make a light and refreshing wine for long hot summer days, especially in the areas that were more suitable for growing red rather than white grapes. A little pale grape juice would be bled off from the red grapes in the early stages of winemaking to make a Rosé for local consumption.

The best pinks take that idea but are deliberate creations. These days, good Rosé is made by carefully applying modern white wine making techniques to red grape juice. The goal is to ensure freshness and red fruit aromas and flavours while leaving any harsh tannins behind. Because the grape skins contain all the colour and tannin, the winemaker decides how long the skins are left in contact with their juice, usually only a matter of hours. The juice is then fermented, often in modern stainless steel tanks with temperature control to ensure fresh aroma and flavour.

Good Rosé is much less likely to be blended from a combination of red and white wines. With a couple of exceptions this technique is a recipe for insipid wine; it may be a pink colour but won’t have much Rosé character. One notable exception is sparkling Rosé. This is because fizz is usually a blend of wines made from different grapes and years. In any case it is easier to produce a very consistent colour this way.

And of course with any Rosé the colour is a major part of the appeal. It’s supposed to look pretty! You might be surprised at the wide colour variation, depending on the grape variety and the amount of skin contact. Colours can range from the palest onion skin, through orange, to salmon, rose petal, and finally tomato and pomegranate. Indeed, the deepest coloured wines are sometimes referred to as Clairete in Spain or Chiaretto in Italy to distinguish them from lighter wines.

The other distinction is that Rosé contains elements of both white and red wine styles – red wine flavours are accompanied by white wine’s refreshing crisp acidity yet usually there is an absence of tiring tannins and high alcohol. Hence Rosé occupies the middle ground – it can appeal to wine drinkers who usually prefer red to white or conversely to those who choose white over red. But it doesn’t have to be middle of the road!

Most Rosé is made for young drinking and is not designed to be cellared – usually Rosé won’t improve with age and so is best drunk young, typically in the summer following the vintage.
A light chill should be all you need for a great summer apéritif. Food wise, a good dry Rosé is surprisingly versatile any time of year. They make a great partner for charcuterie – try ham, salami and pâté. Fuller bodied examples go well with Tapas and they can also be a good foil at a barbeque. Try them too with milder dry curries because they avoid the clash of spices with tannins. My favourite match is a fish soup with lots of garlicky aioli, crusty bread – and a Rosé from Provence – it simply doesn’t get any better!

Paul Howard is the publisher of Wine Alchemy (winealchemy.com) and a judge at the International Wines and Spirits Competition and the International Wine Challenge.